The present invention relates to jewelry and a method for setting gemstones in a piece of jewelry. More particularly, the present invention relates to so-called invisible setting methods for setting gemstones in a piece of jewelry such that at least one gemstone is held in place by an adjacent gemstone with no metal visible between the gemstones or at least one gemstone is set without metal visible above the girdle of the gemstone.
Gemstones can be set in a piece of jewelry in a number of ways. For example, prior art jewelry setting methods include prong setting, channel setting and invisible setting.
The most common method of setting a gemstone is prong setting. A prong setting comprises at least two thin metal supports that extend from a common base to wrap around and grip opposing upper edges of the girdle of a gemstone. The base of the prong setting is typically attached to a piece of jewelry, such as a ring, to secure the gemstone to the piece of jewelry. While prong setting is an easy and economical method of securing a gemstone to a piece of jewelry, the metal supports are clearly visible and detract from the beauty of the gemstone. Since the supports are exposed, they are also subject to breakage and loss of the gemstones.
Channel setting is another method of setting gemstones in a piece of jewelry. A channel setting comprises a U-shaped channel for holding a row of gemstones in place in the piece of jewelry. The gemstones are placed in the channel and grooves in the opposing walls of the channel engage the girdle of the gemstones. The gemstones are held in the channel by the two opposing walls and grooves in the walls. Channel settings share the same problems as prong settings, namely, that the opposing walls of the setting are visible and detract from the beauty of the gemstones.
Another type of gemstone setting method is the so-called invisible setting method. As the name suggests, the gemstone-securing structure of an invisible setting method is not visible when the gemstone is installed.
The conventional invisible setting method requires a groove to be cut in the lower surfaces or pavilion of the gemstone. Two parallel rails are included in the setting and are configured to engage the grooves in the gemstone to secure the gemstone onto the jewelry piece. Using this method, rails are concealed from view by the girdle and crown of the gemstones. Also, multiple gemstones can be set with their adjacent edges juxtaposed so that the rails are not visible between the gemstones.
While this conventional invisible setting method produces stunning visual effects because the setting is not visible between the gemstones and the gemstones appear to look like one gemstone, the method is difficult and expensive to implement and its use is very limited. For example, this method only works well with specific gemstone shapes such as square or princess cut gemstones. Also, because it requires grooves to be cut into the gemstone, the luster, quality and value of the gemstone is adversely affected.
Thus, there is a need for a invisible method of setting gemstones which is inexpensive and versatile. There is also a need for an invisible setting method that does not adversely affect the luster, quality or value of the gemstone or require the gemstone to be damaged.
These needs and others are satisfied by the jewelry apparatus and method of setting gemstones therein of the present invention. A jewelry apparatus according to the present invention comprises an anchor gemstone, a touch gemstone, and setting means for setting the anchor and touch gemstones in the jewelry apparatus. According to the present invention, the anchor gemstone is set adjacent to the touch gemstone. The touch gemstone is positioned slightly below the anchor gemstone and is held in place by the anchor gemstone, thereby keeping it in place and concealing the setting means. In this manner, the touch gemstone is set in the jewelry apparatus using an invisible setting method without having to cut a groove in the touch gemstone or use side rails to hold it in place.
Preferably, the jewelry apparatus includes at least two anchor gemstones. The anchor gemstones are held in the jewelry apparatus by any conventional setting means and the touch gemstone is held in the jewelry apparatus by the anchor gemstones.
Each of the anchor gemstones and the touch gemstone comprise a crown and a pavilion. Preferably, the crown of the touch gemstone contacts the pavilions of the anchor gemstones, just below their respective girdles, holding the touch gemstone in place in the jewelry apparatus.
In one embodiment, the setting means include a base having three cavities, each substantially the same size as the pavilion of a corresponding one of the anchor gemstones or the touch gemstone. The pavilions of the anchor gemstones and touch gemstone rest in the cavities with the girdle and crown of the gemstones sitting above the base. The setting means also includes channel walls configured to contact the anchor gemstones for holding the anchor gemstones in place in the jewelry apparatus. However, the channel walls do not run between the anchor gemstones and the touch gemstone.
The channel walls may further comprise a wedge between the anchor gemstones for tightening the anchor gemstones in place in the jewelry apparatus. The wedge width is tapered so that is it thinner near the bottom end than the top end. The anchor gemstones are tightened in place by driving the wedge down so that the thicker top end fills any space between the anchor gemstones.
The gemstones can be set in the jewelry apparatus in rows in a so-called channel setting, with a row of touch gemstones held in place between two rows of anchor gemstones. The channel setting means, however, is not visible between the anchor gemstones and the touch gemstones.
A method for setting a plurality of gemstones in a jewelry apparatus according to the present invention includes the steps of placing a touch gemstone in a cavity in a setting means and placing anchor gemstones in cavities in the setting means adjacent to the touch gemstone and a channel wall of the setting means. The anchor gemstones pavilions contact the touch gemstone crown, holding the touch gemstone in place without the setting means being visible between the anchor gemstones and the touch gemstone, and with the anchor gemstone overlapping the girdle of the touch gemstone.
The method can also include the step of tightening the setting means around the anchor gemstones by driving a wedge on the channel wall between the anchor gemstones and toward the base.
The method can be used for setting a plurality of rows of gemstones in a so-called channel setting by first placing a row of touch gemstones in a row of cavities in the setting means base and then placing rows of anchor gemstones in rows of cavities in the setting means base adjacent to the row of touch gemstones. Overlapping and contact between the row of touch gemstones with the rows of anchor gemstones holds the row of touch gemstones in place without the setting means being visible between the rows of anchor gemstones and the row of touch gemstones.